Friday, March 20, 2020

When the dog bites, when the bee stings 🎵🎵 ..... go sailing!



Happy family sailing. Levi, Chris & Oli
It feels like we have been on a long journey this last 12 months, one of preparation and packing. Upgrading the boat from one which was set up for short cruises in Queensland to one fit for the open ocean has been a big job for us. Preparing Jenni’s house to be left and rented has also been a large task involving sorting and moving her belongings. A lot of things to let go! Cars and boats needed to be sold and in the case of ‘Cloud’ put into storage. Chris needed to finish moving out of the workshop on the farm and finalise arrangements with his partners in that venture. We are both very fortunate to have lovely tenants for our homes.

Deckhand Jenni
We are on the move again, yea!
Finally on Thursday 5th March we left our pen at the sailing club and headed over to Oyster Harbour for a quiet couple of nights on one of the courtesy moorings there. When we arrived all the moorings were taken by a small fleet of local boats waiting for a change in the weather so that they could leave for Esperance so we dropped our anchor nearby.

Anchor dragging.
We woke the next morning to an even stronger easterly with quite a bit of north in it and sure enough after a couple of hours Chris decided to let out a bit more chain and as he did so the anchor started to drag and we were headed for the beach very close by. Fortunately the motor was running as a precaution and we were able to motor forward just before we connected with the lovely old vessel ‘Amity’ which was moored next to us. 
We narrowly avoided colliding with the lovely old Amity
We then headed out of the harbour and dropped anchor at the pretty little Middleton Bay just outside the Emu Point channel where the wind was safely blowing offshore. The sun came out and we spent a great few hours swimming and resting before heading back into Princess Royal Harbour for a more sheltered night in town. Lloyd joined us in the evening and we set off before dawn the next day, Saturday the 7th March to head west to Cape Leeuwin and the Indian Ocean.

Farewell Albany - rounding magnificent Bald Head.
The easterly was still pretty brisk so we motor-sailed against the wind with plenty of water over the bow out to Bald Head as the sun came up. Once we turned the corner and started heading west and down-wind the motion was easier and Chris went below to make tea.

Moody West Cape Howe
Leaking boat.
Sadly he was greeted with the sight of a soaking wet bed and forward cabin, salt water everywhere. It turned out that the big hatch over the bed has a setting which just leaves it open a small gap for ventilation and this had been accidentally used instead of the fully closed position, oops! (Won't make that mistake again!)

The rest of our 30 hour journey to Hamelin Bay was easy and uneventful. We had good winds from behind for most of the way with only a couple of hours of no wind when we motored to keep to our scheduled arrival time. The night watches enjoyed beautiful clear starry skies and an almost full moon. It was lovely to have Lloyd along again to share the first leg of this new voyage.

As we rounded Cape Leeuwin in the early morning, we reflected on having now sailed the entire south coast of mainland Australia.  

Hamelin Bay.

The gorgeous turquoise waters of Hamelin Bay
Hamelin Bay just north of Cape Leeuwin was as beautiful as ever. Strong easterly winds persisted for the whole week we were there but the anchorage was comfortable and snug. The caravan park was very helpful and we made full use of the laundry for washing and drying the salty stuff from the for’d cabin. We were invited by an old client of Chris’s who is a fisherman there to use the new mooring they had installed for visiting boats. 
Crayfish anyone?  Thanks Graham!
The following morning we woke to the sound of a large diesel motor close by and 2 crayfish were dropped in our dinghy. Chris went to say thanks and went aboard the fishing boat to meet the crew including Girl [aging blue heeler] and have a look around. He thought he had made friends with the dog and was surprised to get nipped on the hand as he went to pat her goodbye. Quickly pulling his hand away meant that a sharp tooth tore the soft inside of his hand just near the thumb. It was a neat deep tear and really should have been stitched but Mr Lee was resistant to that and stuck it together himself. It is healing nicely but of course taking much longer than if it had been sutured, and unfortunately keeping it dry meant no swimming in Hamelin Bay for Chris.

While on the topic of hand injuries, the next day we had an after-school visit from Oli and her three kids for a BBQ dinner and a bit of fishing. Chris was sitting on the beach with the boys when the dinghy started to drift away, he put his good hand down on the sand to get up and put it right on top of a resting bee. Never having had a bad reaction to bee stings before, he didn’t think much of it and the evening progressed for about an hour during which time he became very itchy. Turns out he had developed a bright red rash of hives across his groin and thighs, under arms and head. Jenni rushed back to Upstart for anti-histamines and after another hour it had subsided just leaving a very swollen hand which persisted for 3 days. All in all a bad period for hand injuries that left us singing that song from the Sound of Music...   when the dog bites, when the bee stings….🎵🎵

The Albany fleet in Hamelin Bay - 6 yachts. Must be a record we think
During the week we were a bit surprised to see a sail approaching from the south. It was Darren and Linda on ‘Baudin’ the leading boat in a fleet of 6 from Albany. They had got fed up with waiting for the easterly to subside for their planned trip to Esperance and hopped on the wind going west instead. During the course of the day five boats arrived and one continued to Quindalup.

Dunsborough
It was great to have a few mates around and we joined them sailing north to Dunsborough Bay on the 14thMarch. We had Chris’s mate Alex and his two nieces Nava and Avaz on board for the day sail along the coast of the peninsular and around Cape Naturaliste. A lovely sail and a good chance to catch up with an old friend. 
Happy Alex
We have been here on a mooring in Quindalup for a few days now and will stay for a week or so, or until the wind is making it unsafe.

Rounding Cape Naturaliste into Geographe Bay
Oli, the kids and her friend Fay joined us again earlier this week for twilight sailing and fishing. Young Isaac proved his mettle as an apprentice rigger, climbing the mast to the top spreader to retrieve a wayward halyard.  (Although he quite effortlessly free climbed the mast, we did of course have a safety harness on him!).  It was a beautiful evening and the kids had a great time exploring, hauling in the sheets, grinding the winches and learning to steer the big boat.

Rigger Isaac, a natural mast climber.

Isaac steering a steady course  - totally focused on the telltales.
We are enjoying the relative quiet here and have been provisioning and catching up with a few small jobs. Heavy rain a few days ago washed all the salt off the boat and enabled us to fill our water tanks.  We are very well placed for self-quarantining.

Most of the other Albany boats have gone further north now looking for a bit more warmth, We may see them going the other way when they head for home and we make our way north at some time.

Exploring Hamelin Island - in pictures.
Hamelin Bay was a bustling timber port in the late 1800s early 1900s with the remains of a long timber jetty still visible in the water. We took a dinghy ride across to the little island off the Bay to explore the old ship moving infrastructure still there. 



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Tuesday, March 3, 2020

Standby for Cast Off!


Monday March 2nd 2020.

It’s been just over a year since our last blog entry and as we write this short pre-departure entry we are in the last stages of getting ready to leave on an unspecified voyage of discovery, curiosity and adventure.

New Year's Day at Two Peoples' Bay
Chris has been doing a major overhaul of Upstart all year including some much needed water and fuel tanks, new rigging, bottom scraping etc. [please ask if you would like more details of what we did and why.]

New 250 litre aluminium fuel tank

Diesel cleaning and delivery system

Settee repaired after installing the new fuel tank

Preparing to fit the new water tank under the forward bunk

Water tank going in - adding about 300 litres of fresh water to our supplies

Bunk all repaired, ready for a coat of varnish and then the new bedding.
Jenni has been busy on the sewing machines re-upholstering the whole boat in a lovely red fabric. We made a new ‘stack pack’ for our massive main sail,  several other sewing projects and not to mention all the triangular fitted sheets.

Sewing with the "tractor" portable industrial machine.

Learning about box corners
6 meter long mainsail stack pack under construction
Both of our houses have happy tenants in them and we have been living aboard for a month now at the sailing club. The cars are sold our possessions are in the garage or on the boat and we have started looking at the weather forecasts in detail.

Since we moved aboard the wind has been blowing hard from the east, almost continually and it looks like that will continue for the next 10 days at least. It is a good wind for us to get around Cape Leeuwin on the first leg of our voyage up the west coast, and we are looking at leaving at the end of the week.

Here are a few more pics of our labours this last year.

A few weeks on the hardstand doing hard labour including scraping off 10 years of old antifouling paint.


Blue is the new black

Back home at PRSC after haul-out, sporting our new blue mainsail stackpack
Believe it or not, this spaghetti is our new reverse osmosis water maker.

The old keel lifting cables - new ones were definitely needed!

Aerial sewing

New leather spreader boots

The new settee cushions and the lovely Sea Dragon painting from Ceduna 



Monday, March 18, 2019

Albany Arrival Part 2

For those who receive our blog by email it seems the last one about our arrival in Albany was cut short.  There is a little video showing us scooting through the channel coming into Albany, and that's where the email version of the blog stopped.

If you would like to see the video and the rest of the blog, click on this link to go to the full blog site:


Sunday, March 17, 2019

Albany Arrival


Four months after leaving Brisbane and the Gold Coast, on 20th February 2019 we made a joyous arrival in our home port of Albany. We have had the most amazing experience sailing over 3,200 nautical miles down the east and across the south coasts of Australia.



In the channel to Princess Royal Harbour Albany - nearly home!
Although we have been ‘home’ for a few weeks ago now, and somewhat immersed in the busyness of land life it’s time to share the story and some of the thrills of the last leg from Esperance….

 
Checking our navigation from Esperance - Albany is that way!

After Diana and Peter said a reluctant farewell, we chilled out for a week in the lovely friendly town of Esperance, as usual waiting for the weather to be right for the next leg.  We enjoyed the down-time and Esperance’s cafes, cinema, quirky museum, scenic walks and fabulously friendly yacht club.  I must mention the wonderfully helpful Mark Quinlivan again – the guy who lent us a car for our time there.  Diana and Peter spent a night in Mark’s Clearwater Motel and we highly recommend it if you are looking for accommodation in Esperance.

Our new crew Lloyd and young Christopher were on standby to get across from Albany and join us for the few days cruising home.  They came  on a Saturday and we again enjoyed watching the afternoon’s yacht racing from our premiere position anchored next to the start line, followed by a terrific dinner at the vibrant yacht club.

We were very taken with the whole Esperance sailing scene and the fantastic cruising in the Recherche Archipelago.  It’s definitely on the list to go back and spend more time there with the added attraction/incentive of the amazing places to see on the way.

Stunning Esperance.  Go there for a holiday!
We set off very early on Sunday morning for the Investigator Islands, between Esperance and Hopetoun.  These are two small rocky islands that are joined by a breaking barrier of low rocks to form a tiny horseshoe shaped bay.  Lloyd had been there in January, so with a bit of local knowledge we crept around the rocky entrance late in the afternoon into the tiny bay and dropped anchor in about 15 metres of crystal clear water.  Immediately we became aware that this little rocky outcrop was absolutely teeming with fish below and wildlife above – seals, sea lions and myriads of birds surrounded us. Unfortunately, due to the swell breaking over the rocky bar, a bit of surge in the bay and no beach to land on, we couldn’t go ashore and had to admire the local residents from the boat.

Young Christopher took to the helm of the big boat like an old professional
Despite being such a fascinating place, it wasn’t the most comfortable anchorage and a wind change in the wee hours of the night saw us up anchor at 4am and head off in the pitch dark to Doubtful Islands, just east of Bremer Bay.  We had a quiet day of light winds, enjoying spectacular views of the Barren Ranges in the Fitzgerald National Park changing shape as we made our way down the coast. We arrived at the beautiful Doubtful islands group mid-afternoon and stopped for a swim and snorkel in the sandy channel between two islands before heading into anchorage at Home Beach.  Here we could go ashore and stretch our legs.

Lloyd and  Christopher exploring Doubtful Islands near Bremer Bay.
The next day we were filled with excitement at the prospect of seeing the famous Orcas (killer whales) in the Bremer Canyon area.  We had been given co-ordinates and tips on where we might see them and set off at dawn for the 25 nautical miles out to the hotspot.  We were not disappointed!  After seeing several ‘blows’ and dorsal fins in the distance, then chatting to one of the tour boats on the radio a large Orca popped up  right next to the boat blasting out a tremendous out-breath!  That one was just teasing us and quickly disappeared. 

We then sailed slowly towards one of the tour boats and by midday found ourselves right in the midst of a pod of about 6 orcas, lifting heads, flapping tails and fins and generally putting on a bit of a show.  Unlike other whales we have seen that are resting for long periods on the surface, the orcas are hunting at great depths and come up for air and a short rest.  The canyons are on the edge of the Continental Shelf where the depth drops rapidly from about 100 metres to several kilometres, creating an intense marine biodiversity hotspot for orcas and other giants of the sea.

We were too excited and didn't have the camera gear to take any decent pictures...

Orcas! Christopher's best shot
But there are  plenty of fantastic photos on the web so we'll borrow one for you:

This is what it felt like we were seeing!
Photo courtesy of
http://sightseeingpassaustralia.com/index.php/wa-bucket-list-25-things-see-western-australia/
And if you'd like to know more about the Bremer Canyon Hotspot, here are some links to videos:

Thrilled with our up-close experience and with a nice south-easterly breeze filling in, we popped the spinnaker and enjoyed a fast run all the way for the 60 odd nautical miles to Two People’s Bay.  The moon was rising beautifully as we sailed into our familiar bay at about 9pm and dropped anchor for the last time on this big voyage.

Sunset spinnaker run to Two People's Bay
Next morning, we enjoyed a leisurely start knowing we had a mere 25 miles to go. We were delighted that Jenni’s long-time friend and childhood sailing buddy Marie could join us for the final cruise home.  

Welcome aboard Marie!

The conditions were perfect to make a quick sail for the last 25 miles from Two People’s Bay, running across King George Sound in a fresh 20-25 knot easterly and taking a leg out past Breaksea Island.  
Final dash across the Sound.
We came flying through the channel under jib only and to our great surprise were greeted at the Town Marina by a wonderfully warm welcome party.  The champagne flowed!

Scooting into the Attaturk Channel in the fresh sea-breeze.
Thank you so much to everyone who came down to cheer us in, for all your warm wishes and the great photos people took of us coming across the sound and through the channel.  We were thrilled  to have brought our lovely boat home.  We couldn’t be happier!

So what’s next?  Well we took a few days to move off the boat and enjoyed being ‘visiting yachties’ at the marina right in the middle of our home town.  After a few days at the marina, we moved the boat across the harbour to our new pen at Princess Royal Sailing Club and somewhat reluctantly moved back into the house.  Our very grateful thanks to Johnno Clarke for setting up mooring lines ready for us., and to Colin Westerberg and Kelly Walsh who put in the new pylon for our pen.  Upstart is snug and secure in her new home and we have again become familiar with living on-shore.

Snug in our new pen at Princess Royal Sailing Club

This year will see us here in Albany, enjoying local cruising for the remainder of the summer/autumn seasons and then pulling the boat out of the water in winter for maintenance.  Next year.... watch this space! 



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